Tiny Canvassess, Big Statements: Nail Art and Self-expression

With 90s minimalism taking over the fashion and art world, people have taken a new approach to self-expression that scratches that itch of colour and design. And what better way to scratch an itch than with bright floral nails, the longer the better! And the atmosphere of nail art is no different when it comes to self-expression. 

For Bad Bunny’s superbowl performance, he made his way through the Puerto Rican village, passing by two women who were in the process of getting their nails done. And while to many, it may seem like a tedious and insignificant process, it is at times the most creative collaboration there is. The nail tech and the nail client are what the barber is to the person in the chair. There is this level of intimacy and loyalty that comes with the job that makes us feel that we are able to tell them anything and everything. A twist on Catholic confession, making this relationship a tale as old as time. 

So as we pour our hearts and grievances that have weighed on us for weeks, we find ourselves not only looking for an outlet but looking for a way to be seen. And not only do these nail techs provide the space to be seen but are able to communicate that into real art that sits at the tip of our fingers. This doesn’t just apply to the nail client, but to the nail techs themselves. Many of whom have built the business up from nothing, after many coming from immigrant backgrounds. One of the easiest and most understood ways that these nail techs are heard, as many may not speak the language of the country they immigrated to well enough, their art is a form of communication that stays with each person they meet. 

Nail art is no trend, it's a tradition that has dated back to the 18th century. However, at this time, it was known as a status symbol for Egyptian and many Asian cultures using natural flowers and or henna to add hues of rose and pink. The length of nails were just as telling, associated with nobility among cultures such as Chinese society. Not only would they be long but hold stones and metals signaling high class, making us wonder why Birkins became the new nail charms when it comes to high status? 

But the 19th century brought what the merchant class does best, putting a twist on tradition. Instead of simply idolising nail art as unattainable, it became this form of sensual expression. The infamous red nail that our mothers would say was too ‘adult’ for young girls. Nails were not only an access point of touch but a signal in itself, a subtle way of flirting. A colour that was so regal for ancient Egyptians and Chinese nobility. A subtle low-contrasting colour was seen among the lower class, leaving the French tip rolling in its grave after this. Red has been an iconic statement in the nail world but also in the artistic world, symbolizing sex, love, power, and overall boldness. From Betty Boop to Dorothy Gale, red has been their signature tool to getting business done. Iconic supermodels such as Donyale Luna, the first black supermodel on the cover of Twen magazine, showing that nail art is a part of black culture. 

As the nail world has transitioned out of hierarchical status symbols (no complaints here), what are nails saying today? 

Well, many nail techs see their jobs as a way of endless creativity. Clients use this talent for creativity to make cheeky statements. With one nail design spelling out the word ‘F*ck’ once the fingertips aligned with each hand, and the thumb adorning a smiley face. It has even evolved to a verbal protest of human rights. From representing colours of national flags, specifically to show support for those countries, such as Palestinian-themed nails. Thinking about how much change can a nail design do? Enough to cause Iolanda Costa, a Portuguese singer at Eurovision to be censored for proudly displaying the Keffiyeh design on her nails. A traditional Palestinian pattern you’re unable to ignore as Iolanda holds the microphone up to capture her bold voice. To aesthetic centred nails, one which has gained nailtech @vivxue 3.3 million followers on TikTok for her art. A notable one being her take on ‘how it feels to watch Corpse Bride on nails’, to create glow in the dark, eerie, gothic-perfection on nails, with drawn on characters you could easily mistaken for the animation. 

Many of these nails do the talking, with themes that associate with the person’s place in life, season, occasion etc. Inspiration coming from Pinterest and TikTok, and especially nail techs using Instagram as personal murals of their art, think of it like visiting their art studio. 

Nail art has unmistakably transitioned from collective hierarchical uniforms to now individual voices in the everyday. It has become a symbol of one’s own identity and beliefs, that slips into conversation, compliments, and even mundane tasks. In a world that requires many to present themselves ‘professionally’, this is a way to not let ‘professionalism’ get in the way of identity. Simplistic and collective can stay with 90s fashion, because the simplest part of nails will be the tasks they perform. Hit the salons, browse nail techs Instagrams, and make a statement on or off a stage.

Written By: Sophia Arceo, @sophiearceo

Edited By: Kirsten Baldwin, @teddys_bookshelf