Politics in Fashion: The ‘Saoirse’ Kufiya threading heritage between Palestine and Ireland
Fashion, like every art form, is a tool of expression. Every single day, we each individually engage with fashion in some capacity. Whether it be putting on a uniform, a suit or a collection of well-thought-out, vintage curated pieces, worn with the intention and purpose of portraying yourself as a ‘fashionable person’, the clothes we wear say something about us. And like nearly every facet of life, the expression of the personal is also an expression of the political.
The Palestinian kufiya (or keffiyeh) has become a widely worn piece of clothing, as an act of solidarity and public expression of support for the Palestinian people, both in Ireland and around the world. The kufiya is often referred to as Palestine’s ‘unofficial flag’ due to repeated attempts by Israel, in its nearly 60 years of occupation, to suppress, if not outright ban, the flying of the Palestinian flag. Deeply rooted in Palestinian heritage, the kufiya is far more than an accessory, and its meaning shifts dramatically depending on who wears it and why. Its prominence among non-Palestinian wearers during the past two years of escalating violence in Gaza is not the first time the scarf has captured Western attention.
Tracing the presence and shifting attitudes of the kufiya in ‘Western’ fashion reveals a broader reflection of how Palestine itself is understood in Western media, depending on the political climate regarding the Israeli occupation and Palestine. In the early noughties, the kufiya was adopted, or more accurately, appropriated by ‘hipsters’. This appropriation of the kufiya, unsurprisingly, made it enormously popular, with the majority of wearers being totally ignorant of its political and historical significance. Isolated from its political and historical importance, the kufiya became a staple of the stereotypical hipster and for those seeking an aesthetic of effortless rebellion. High street retailers quickly capitalised on it; Urban Outfitters sold it as an ‘anti-war scarf.’ Topshop and Boohoo sold dresses and rompers, adorned with the iconic black and white fishnet pattern of the kufiya, branding them as ‘festival playsuits’ and ‘tribal smock dresses’respectively.
In 2007, The New York Times reported on this trend, noting the kufiya’s deep political resonance: “In the insurrection against the British occupation from 1936 to 1939, the kaffiyeh became a symbol of Palestinian nationalism as well as an expression of class struggle.” Reading such a frank acknowledgement today is striking, given the severe criticism the newspaper has faced in recent years for its coverage of Israel and Palestine, including accusations of bias and reports of internal directives discouraging the use of terms such as “Palestine” and “Occupied Territory.” The kufiya has long since disappeared from high street shelves, an absence that marks both an end to its superficial appropriation and its re-entry into the political sphere.
The traditional kufiya itself is also under threat. The last remaining Palestinian kufiya factory, Hebron’s Hirbawi Textile Factory, continues to produce the scarf using a combination of handcraft and machine stitching. Each pattern reflects elements of Palestinian history, the olive tree, trade routes, and the land’s connection to the sea. Hirbawi’s work is culturally invaluable, not only because they are the final active producers of authentic Palestinian kufiyas, but also because they create an Irish tricolour version named Saoirse. Its existence honours the long-standing bond between Ireland and Palestine, a solidarity shaped by shared experiences of colonisation and struggle. As Hirbawi themselves note, ‘The memory and consequence of colonisation live in the very marrow of every Irish bone,’ a sentiment that resonates deeply in both nations.
Fashion is a constantly evolving language of identity and resistance. The story of the Palestinian kufiya illustrates how a garment can carry immense historical and emotional weight and how its meaning shifts depending on the wearer's context and intention. Once commodified and emptied of significance by Western fashion cycles, the kufiya has re-emerged as a symbol of steadfastness and remembrance. Today, it stands not only as an assertion of Palestinian identity but also as a testament to global solidarity, particularly in places like Ireland, where the echoes of occupation continue to inform a profound commitment to justice. In reclaiming the kufiya’s meaning, wearers participate in an act of witness, insisting on the refusal to let a people and their heritage be erased.
Writer: Maeve Ruane Ronayne @maeveruaneronayne
Editor: Shaunamay Martin Bohan @f4wnfatale
